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Essay text:
Throughout the Third World, there are informal travellers' centers such as Khao San Road in Bangkok, the Thamal area in Kathmandu, and Jalan Jaksa in central Jakarta. In such places, Western wealth buys access to an entire neighbourhood devoted to English-language service: hotels, restaurants, cafes, travel agencies and bookshops.
But - Tokyo?
Japan is very much for the Japanese, a country where Western travellers typically come to make money, not to spend it. It was the first country in which an entire neighbourhood was not already ready and waiting, prepared for my arrival: the first country in which I had to seriously try to make sense out of signs in a foreign language, to hold conversations in a foreign language, and to make telephone calls in a foreign language...
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