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It is done without a board. A person first swims
toward shore "to equal the wave speed." Then the person stiffens the body in
order to "plane" on the front of the wave. Surfing is basically the same as
body surfing. The only difference is, instead of stiffening the body, the
surfer must stand on a surfboard.
In the middle 1950's, surfboards were made of heavy wood. They were
handmade and required a lot
of sanding and filing to make the boards smooth.
Today's surfboards are manufactured in a factory using light balsa wood or
fiberglass and polyurethane. An added benefit of using these materials is a
great reduction in the weight of the boards...
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